The day before: Run fresh water over your veal sweetbreads. In a large pot, place your sweetbreads and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 8 minutes after it comes to a boil. Refresh under cold water, trim away any membrane, then place in a large bowl. Set a small overturned plate on top with a light weight, then refrigerate everything overnight.
The next day:
1 Set up 4 shallow bowls: rice flour in one, egg beaten with cream in another (season with salt and pepper), then one with breadcrumbs, and finally one with Parmesan.
2 Slice 3 nice escalopes from each sweetbread nugget, lay them flat on your work surface, season well with salt and pepper, then do the following: coat them first in flour, then in egg, then in breadcrumbs, and finally in Parmesan. Return your escalopes to the fridge.
3 Just 30 minutes before eating, melt the butter and add a drop of oil in a large skillet. When it's nice and hot, place your escalopes and brown them well for 4 minutes on each side. Turn off the heat and cover for 10 minutes. Then reheat slightly, place your escalopes on warm plates, heat the butter in the pan, add the lemon juice, and spoon the sauce over your escalopes. Serve with, for example, fresh pasta with tomato sauce and a touch of chili, or spinach just wilted in cream, or creamy sorrel purée. *A veal has 2 sweetbreads: the heart one, round-shaped, is the best, and the other from the throat is more elongated and stringier.
Milanese cooks bread their escalopes in fine breadcrumbs, nothing else. But in Turin, two hours away, some butchers add Grana Padano instead of Parmesan to the breadcrumb mixture, a less salty cheese that gives a more golden, less greasy crust. If you can find 24-month aged Grana at your cheese shop, give it a try: the difference in taste is real.
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