White Asparagus from the Loire Valley with Fresh Goat Cheese Mousse refined and elegant

White asparagus from the Loire Valley is the star of the show from April to June. They grow underground, away from the light, which gives them their pale colour and a sweeter taste than green asparagus. It's a seasonal vegetable that doesn't keep well: pick it fresh and eat it fresh.

As a dish, this is a Sunday starter, the kind you make when you have time and want to show you know your way around the kitchen. The soft-boiled eggs that go with it are pure 1950s Parisian classic, when fine dining establishments served this as a hot starter. The fresh goat cheese mousse replaces béarnaise sauce or classic mousse, which lightens things up and brings out the acidic contrast of the cheese.

For the accompaniment, keep it simple: toasted bread or bread soldiers for dipping in the mousse. That's all you need.

For wine, a dry white from the Loire Valley is the way to go: Sancerre, dry Vouvray, or a white Chinon if you can find it. The wine's acidity will bring out the sweetness of the asparagus, and the fresh goat cheese will pair beautifully with it. Avoid overly buttery wines, as they'll feel heavy with the cream.

Out of season, frozen asparagus does the job. Local producers offer them plain, and it's honest and good quality. It means you can make this dish in October or November if the mood takes you.