Recipe: Pork Cheeks

Pork cheeks are the cut everyone overlooks at the butcher. Yet they're pure collagen that becomes meltingly tender after three hours of slow braising. Ask your butcher to clean and trim them for you, they cost almost nothing and it's a shame to pass them by. This is an autumn and winter dish, when you want to slow down on a Sunday with a pot that's been simmering for hours. The mushroom and Meaux mustard sauce brings acidity and backbone. Wine-wise, a slightly sweet white like Cadillac or Muscat holds its own against the richness of cream and meat tenderness. If you prefer red, a Beaujolais village works just fine. Serve this with fresh pasta, creamy polenta, or simply rice. The mushroom duxelles you prepare alongside enriches everything without overloading the plate. If you cook this ahead of time (which is smart), you can cool the whole cheeks, slice them the day before, and reheat everything in a bain-marie without letting it boil.