Recipe: The Crispy Duck Andouillette

Crispy duck andouillettes are a weekend or holiday dish, best when you've got time to spare. The andouillette keeps warm well and prepares easily a day ahead if you plan the peas in advance. Historically andouillette is a cornerstone of French charcuterie, less common in duck version but delivering much finer flavor than standard pork andouillette. Planèze blonde peas are a Cantal specialty, grown on basalt plateaus between 800 and 1200 meters altitude. Small, thin-skinned, easy to digest because they lack the thick envelope of chickpeas. Find them through local producers or direct order. A perfect autumn and winter dish when you want nourishing food without heaviness. For wine, choose a full-bodied dry white: Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé, or solid Chablis stand up to the panure richness and caper acidity. A light Beaujolais village works too, if you prefer red. Skip thin or neutral whites, they won't cut through. For simple accompaniment, the warm pea salad is enough. If you want more, set out a good sharp mustard on the side, or small pickles. Keep the crispy slices hot; they lose their crunch as they cool.