Recipe: My Veal Tripe Madrid Style

Veal tripe Madrid style is a dish we forget too often in France, yet it's everywhere in Spanish taverns. Historically it's a classic of Madrid's eating culture, taken up by cooks who waste nothing from a well-treated animal. For us, it's more of an autumn and winter dish, when you want something hearty and warming. Tripe needs slow, long cooking, never rushed. By the end it becomes almost tender, with a texture like nothing else. The braising liquid picks up every flavor from the wine, garlic and saffron. In summer, you can add a good blanched tomato in big cubes, it freshens everything up. With wine, forget light reds. Go for a Provençal rosé naturally, or a light red like Beaujolais village. If you prefer white, a Côtes du Rhône white works just fine. The acidity handles the richness of the braising liquid and the chorizo flavor well. For sides, the potatoes and olives are plenty. You can add toasted bread for dipping in the juice. It's a family dish, no fuss, where everyone serves themselves generously.