Recipe: Stewed and Grilled Pork Tails

Pork tails have come back into favor because they hold up beautifully to slow cooking and we waste less. It's an autumn and winter dish, something hot and filling without being heavy. Technically, it's a Sunday project, not a rushed weeknight: 3.5 hours total including grilling, but most of it cooks unattended. The golden peas from Planèze are the star here. These small, chestnut-flavored legumes are grown by Henri Bouniol in Cantal using conservation agriculture with no chemicals. Soaked 4 hours and cooked in the same broth as the pork, they absorb all the savory richness. For wine, choose a soft red without harsh tannins: a Beaujolais village, Côtes du Rhône, or even a Sancerre rouge. The preserved red pepper brings sweetness and acidity that balances well with the mustard. Skip crisp whites, they'll feel thin against the gelatin and Meaux mustard. The cooking broth becomes sauce, poured hot over the peas. Don't discard it. Add flat parsley leaves, fleur de sel and freshly ground white pepper. If you remove the skin before grilling and grill it separately, it crisps up nicely. Use any leftover cooking liquid to poach eggs the next morning.