Ingredients for 4 servings
- 1 kg fresh morels
- 1/2 onion (or 1 shallot)
- 8 thick slices (4mm) of smoked bacon
- 2 glasses of dry white wine
- 1 small pot of crème fraîche
- 1 knob of butter
- Salt, pepper
If you are fortunate enough to know a spot where morels grow, and if you are fortunate enough to have an honest butcher, then you know what I'm talking about. And, as March arrives, you will be seized by a peculiar obsession! Well, I say March, but depending on where you are, it might be April, or even May, but that doesn't change anything! The moment comes when you can think of nothing but a pan of bacon with morels!
So, you return from the surrounding woods with your basket of morels.
You take a good kilo of your harvest. The prettiest ones!
You clean them carefully. A knife, a stiff brush, and a damp cloth are often sufficient: you picked them cleanly precisely to avoid having to wash them. (Rinse under running water those that, despite your care, are still earthy).
You split them in half to remove any unwanted guests (it is not uncommon for wood lice, slugs, and other centipedes or millipedes to have taken up residence in your mushroom).
You cut the largest morels into pieces.
The rind of your bacon would harden too much in the pan, so you remove it (just the skin, not the fat). But of course, you keep this rind, well wrapped in the butcher's paper, just in case you have some beans to cook, or some lentils, or even some broth to enrich.
You then put a spoonful of olive oil in a pan, and you brown your bacon in it. When you feel it starting to crisp, you remove it and keep it warm, covered, on the side of the stove.
You drain the excess bacon fat from your pan. Then you melt your finely chopped onion in it (or your shallot, whichever you prefer!).
When your onion has sufficiently softened, you add your morels, then you cover and cook on high heat for five minutes to release their water.
Salt and pepper in this water (moderately because
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