Line-Caught Bluefin Tuna Hearts with Soissons Basquaise delicate and fragrant

This is a Sunday dish, the kind you make when you have access to beautiful line-caught red tuna and want to eat light but hearty. Historically, Basque-style garnish comes from the Basque Country where Espelette pepper and Bayonne ham rule. Season-wise, you get the best tuna from June to October, when peppers and eggplants are at their peak. Soissons beans are more late summer and autumn, harvested around September. In short, it's a dish that revolves around September-October, when tomatoes are really ripe and the sun is still present.

Line-caught red tuna is fished with respect, unlike seine fishing which kills everything. Check the origin carefully, go to thonrougedeligne.com. Same for Soissons beans: French cooperative, not just any white bean that would do the job. You can taste the quality of ingredients right away.

Wine-wise, go for a dry white from Basque-Aquitaine or a Sancerre. White wine holds up better against the richness of tuna and the acidity of tomato than any light red. A white Côtes du Jura also works very well, more mineral. Avoid overly oaked wines, they'll overpower the fish.

As for accompaniments, you don't need anything else. Grilled vegetables and beans, that's complete. Just a little fleur de sel and freshly ground pepper at the table. If you're feeling indulgent, add a splash of good extra virgin olive oil to the plate, the kind that smells wonderful. It's a simple, generous dish.