Recipe: Roasted Noir de Bigorre Pork Chops

Noir de Bigorre pork is raised free-range in the Pyrenees, fed on silage and chestnuts. The meat is dark, well-marbled, full-flavored. This is a Sunday or celebration dish, not complicated, just demanding good equipment and discipline to keep heat low. Autumn and winter are ideal. Fresh apples from October and November work beautifully with duck fat. Banyuls, that sweet Roussillon wine, adds gentle acidity that lifts the jus without overwhelming the meat. Stick to reds or sweet wines. A Côtes du Roussillon, solid Beaujolais village, or the Banyuls itself. Skip dry whites, too lean against this characterful meat. If you must choose white, try a full-bodied white Savoie. Keep sides simple: roasted apples are enough. Bitter greens after, boiled potatoes if you're hungry. The point is not drowning the pork in fussy sauces. Let the meat shine.