Recipe: Golden Crusts

Golden crusts are a family dessert, something you cook on Sunday morning or after a feast to finish off brioche that's starting to go stale. It's one of those recipes that travels well: born in Touraine in the Middle Ages, it crossed the Atlantic to Quebec, and adapts to each region without losing its soul. The key ingredient is stale brioche. The older it gets, the better it absorbs the egg-milk mixture without becoming mushy. The sugars melt with the heat and form a caramelized crust at the edges. Churned butter, if you can find it, makes a real difference: richer than standard dairy butter, it brings character without overdoing it. When it comes to drinks, golden crusts don't demand anything complicated. A glass of farmhouse cider, preferably dry, works perfectly. If you prefer wine, go for a light white like Savennières or a Vouvray demi-sec from the region. For adults who really want to make an occasion of it, white brandy or dry Calvados served at room temperature after the meal is just right. For accompaniments, keep it simple: golden crusts stand on their own. A fresh fruit salad if you're serving in summer, nothing else. The free-range eggs and Tahitian vanilla mentioned here are not fussy choices: they genuinely change the final taste.