Recipe: Skate Cheeks with Chervil

Skate cheeks are a cut we overlook far too often. Yet they're the most tender part, the kind that melts on your tongue if you don't overcook them. Patrick Asfaux made it a staple of Breton cooking, and honestly it works brilliantly. It's a spring and early summer dish, when button mushrooms are firm and fresh, and chervil won't overpower. Cured ham brings fat and salt that balances the fish's delicate nature. You can also use monkfish cheeks if skate isn't available, they work just fine. For wine, choose a dry white with structure: Chablis, Pouilly-fumé, or a good Loire Valley wine. If you prefer lighter, a Sancerre works too. Skip light reds and heavily oaked wines, the fish can't take them. Serve with plain steamed potatoes or celery purée. Some add glazed baby carrots, that's nice. The key is keeping the butter and lemon sauce clear and light. Plate it hot, that's basic respect for the fish.