1 An hour before the meal, melt 2.1 oz (60 g) of butter with a few drops of oil in your large skillet. When it becomes foamy, place your ray cheeks, salt and pepper them, then over high heat cook for 4 minutes. Turn them over, season lightly with salt and pepper, then cook for another 4 minutes. Pour lemon juice over them and transfer to a small plate, keeping the skillet.
2 Put the skillet back on the heat, melt the butter then add your mushroom quarters. Season with salt and pepper, cook for 5 minutes over high heat, then cover and turn off the heat.
3 Finely chop your chervil and garlic together, then set aside.
4 Your guests are at the aperitif, so turn the heat back on under your skillet. Add your diced cured ham then your ray cheeks with the rendered juices. Sprinkle with your chervil and garlic mixture, stir and serve on a hot platter or hot plates.
You can also make this recipe with monkfish cheeks.
Ray cheeks are a cut we forget too often. Yet it's the most tender part, the kind that melts on your tongue if you don't overcook it. I've made it a classic of the Breton repertoire, and it really works beautifully. It's a spring and early summer dish, when button mushrooms are beautiful and firm, and fresh chervil adds flavor without overpowering. Vendée ham brings fat and salt that balances the delicate nature of the fish. You can also use monkfish cheeks if you don't have access to ray, it works just fine. Serve on hot plates, that's a matter of respect for the fish.
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