Delicate Landaise white asparagus steamed over sea water, enhanced with a tangy vinaigrette and seaweed for an explosion of briny flavors.
Landaise asparagus comes in at its peak in April and May, when it's pale and tender. Steam for 18 minutes over sea water to keep it soft inside. Wild garlic finely sliced raw in the dressing adds a fresh green note that cuts through the briny seaweed.
1 Peel the asparagus carefully. Place the peelings and seaweed in the bottom of a couscous steamer or steamer pot filled with sea water or water mixed with coarse sea salt.
2 Arrange the asparagus spears on the top tier, cover, and steam for about 18 minutes after the water comes to a boil. Test for doneness by piercing with a knife tip.
3 While the asparagus cooks, prepare the vinaigrette. Pour the cider vinegar into a bowl, season with salt and pepper. Add the minced wild garlic, then whisk in the oil gradually until emulsified.
4 Plate the warm asparagus spears and generously coat with the vinaigrette. The asparagus will reveal its full maritime character.
This dish plays on the contrast between the delicacy of the asparagus and the mineral bite of the sea, making it an honest starter for a holiday meal or a quiet Sunday. Season-wise, you'll only find true white Landaise asparagus for three or four weeks a year. The rest is imports or stored stock. Stick to April-May, when they arrive at market still dusted with soil. For wine pairing, reach for a dry, crisp white like Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé. The acidity stands up to the seaweed's brine and the vinaigrette. A Chablis works perfectly too. Skip reds, they'll drown the asparagus. For what goes with it, serve this starter alone, no bread, nothing else. It's plenty. If you're serving it before fish, perfect. Before red meat, it preps the palate nicely. The raw wild garlic gives it real punch, so count on it to hold the dish together.
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