1 In a large pot, add the unwashed, unpeeled potatoes, bay leaves, and dried ceps. Cover with water, allowing 2 to 3 cm above the ingredients. Salt with coarse salt and cook for 20 minutes after the water comes to a boil.
2 Meanwhile, soften the butter, salt, pepper it, add a grating of nutmeg and your chopped truffle peelings, then set aside.
3 Once the potatoes are cooked, drain them, peel them while hot, and pass them through a food mill or ricer over a pot. Put back on the heat and let dry slightly, then remove from heat and gradually add your truffle butter. Taste and adjust seasoning, then cover with a splash of milk on top.
4 Salt and pepper your fillets, then quickly coat them in rice flour.
5 In a large pan, add a little butter and a splash of oil, then cook your fillets meunière style for 3 minutes on each side, then cover.
6 5 minutes before serving, heat your preparations and plate on hot dishes: purée in the center, fillets on either side, then in the pan, quickly toss the hazelnuts with a little hazelnut oil and pour over your fillets with a squeeze of lemon.
November to February is the season when tench swim upstream into flowing waters and hazelnuts from the harvest are roasted. Rehydrated dried ceps bring that autumn depth that fresh mushrooms no longer give. This is a dish for long winter meals, when you have time to make purée with a food mill and watch the fillets cook carefully. This is the kind of cooking you do in November without rushing.
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