Recipe: Petits beurre

The petit beurre is the French four o'clock biscuit, the one you dunk in hot milk or nibble after school. It's an everyday treat, family tea time, Sunday picnics. No seasonality: ingredients are available year-round, fresh butter in winter, cold milk in summer. Chef Patrick Asfaux's trick is brown butter at the start of the dough, which brings a subtle caramelized flavor, and baking soda that makes the biscuit crisp without heaviness. Historically, the petit beurre dates back to the nineteenth century in Brittany. Nantes biscuit factories made it popular, it became a staple of French groceries. Today we make it at home because we know exactly what's in it: four ingredients, time, nothing else. At tea time, serve them simply: a glass of cold or warm milk, coffee for adults, that's it. Some like them with jam, light hazelnut spread, or melted chocolate. If serving as dessert, a demi-sec Vouvray or Coteaux du Layon adds just enough sweetness without overwhelming. For children, thick hot chocolate is the way. Plain and simple, pure friendliness.