Recipe: Soissons Bean Salad, Prawns and Straw Mushrooms

This is a starter you cook mostly in summer, when fresh Soissons beans arrive at the market and you want something light yet substantial. The Soissons bean is an old French variety from Picardy, white and delicate, that absorbs flavour without turning to mush. The turmeric and ginger touch is gently contemporary, without overshadowing the bean itself. Straw mushrooms come in small tins at your local Asian grocer. They're subtle, light, with a slightly crisp texture. Here they cook separately with ginger and rice vinegar, which keeps them lively. The prawns are simply sautéed in olive oil for seconds. The whole technique relies on letting each element rest for a good hour before plating. For wine, choose a dry, light white: Sancerre, Chablis, even a good Muscadet works well. White wine's acidity pairs nicely with ginger, and beans don't need complexity. Serve this warm or at room temperature, never chilled straight from the fridge. Toasted bread on the side is all you need. A few threads of preserved red pepper add a sweet-savoury touch. This is a lazy Sunday family lunch, uncomplicated, just needing patience.