Recipe: Saumon en marinade

Marinated salmon works just as well as everyday fare as it does at a festive aperitif. Serve it cold year-round on toast or as a light starter. The passion fruit brings sweet-tart punch that cuts through any flatness. Passion fruit season runs July through October when ripe fruit hits the market. Salmon is good all year, but go for wild fillets in summer, less fatty. Spring garlic passes better than stored cloves, though both work fine. For wine, keep it simple. A crisp Sancerre, Chablis, or plain Muscadet holds up to the marinade's acidity. Prefer red? Grab a Beaujolais village chilled to 12°C. For sides, buttered toast is enough, or a small butter lettuce salad with just salt. You can also serve it ceviche-style with diced tomato and olive oil. The marinade prep is the whole point, do it ahead.