Recipe: Vanets and small Paris mushrooms in Jurançon cream

Vanets are a spring and early summer dish, best when button mushrooms peak and shellfish are in prime condition. Not everyday cooking, more a Sunday family meal or relaxed dinner party. Season them from March to June when they're firm and full of roe. Perfect for a weeknight meal that stays light yet satisfying. Fifteen minutes start to plate, no more. Find them at good fishmongers or order ahead. For wine, the dry Jurançon used in cooking pairs naturally with similar styles. Serve the same in your glass, or switch to a Sancerre blanc that works with cream and shellfish. Chablis also holds up well, the acidity stands up to egg yolk richness. Skip light reds, creamy sauce overwhelms them. For plating, nothing beyond the reduced and bound cooking liquid. For a fuller plate, serve with steamed white rice or boiled potatoes. The vanets speak for themselves.