Recipe: Breton Cake

The Breton cake is the Sunday afternoon treat, the one you pull out with coffee or sweet cider. Historically, it's the pastry of Breton ports, born when Brittany was rich in butter and eggs. Today it's still a classic in bakeries from Quimper to Vannes. It's a cake for any time of year, but it really shines in autumn, when Norman butter has that golden color and farm eggs are at their best. Speaking of the season, opt for very fresh eggs; the yolks will be fuller and the crumb airier. As for serving, keep it simple: a touch of strawberry jam or apple compote is all you need. If you enjoy wine, a dry Sancerre or Chablis works well, but honestly, dry cider pairs better. Bretons themselves stick with sweet cider alongside this cake. Serve it warm, unmolded for half an hour. You'll see, the crumb holds up well even the next day.