Recipe: Gateau Battu

Gateau Battu is a snack or indulgent breakfast dessert, the kind you make on Saturday morning when time isn't an issue. It's rooted in Northern France, particularly Picardy, a simple pastry recipe that goes back generations. You still find it in small village bakeries, cut thick and lightly toasted. It works year-round. Eggs, butter, flour are basic and available anytime. Fresh baker's yeast is sold at any bakery. The advantage of Gateau Battu is that it keeps easily for 4 days covered, perfect for a slice in late afternoon with coffee or hot chocolate. For serving, the key is creamy chocolate, really creamy. Toast the slices and spread with candied citron jam if you find it, or blackberry jam in autumn. Some Northern pastry shops offer it with light glaze, others plain. Kids love the "sandwich" version from the recipe (chocolate slice, buttered slice, plain, cut into triangles). As for wine, this isn't really a meal course but rather an afternoon treat, so forget wine. Stick with hot chocolate, that's all you need. If serving as dessert, a sweet Sauternes or medium-dry Vouvray would work, but really it's about coffee or chocolate.